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DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Discussion about airplane designs and kits

DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby hennisdk » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:34 pm

Hi Guys

1. I am struggling a bit, I have tried every PID setting but still don't get it to stand still in stabilize mode.
I have leveled it, with water leveler, and the CG very close. Don't think it's the CG cause it drifts in all directions.
2. In loiter mode it circles alot, I read somewhere that there is a setting to specify the loiter radius.
I get 8-9 satelites, so don't think it is that.

Thznks

Hennis
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby GarethRens » Thu Jun 28, 2012 4:40 pm

Hey Hennis

To be dead honest I never got my APM1 or APM2 to hover in one place without stick input. I always had to fly it. COG does play a big role, unless you're running Dji. If its drifting in all directions it probably isnt the COG. Does it drift more, the more you fly it? If you land, disarm, rearm and fly again, is the drift less?

Also have you tried running the inflight leveling command?
Arm the copter and hold the throttle in the right hand corner for 10-15seconds until the leds flash sequentially then fly the copter as still as possible in zero wind conditions.
I havent had much success with the inflight leveling. I always found it drifted worse after it in a particular direction.

The best I got with the GPS was a 3m box with APM1 and not much better with APM2.
The toilet bowl effect can be caused by magnetic declination or your Loiter P gain is set too high or too low.

LOITER_LAT_P and LOITER_LON_P default is 2.2.
Try changing it to 1.8 if it gets worse change it to 2.6. If it gets worse then try lowering it by 0.1 at a time from 2.6.

Let me know how it goes :)

G

One of the main reasons why I changed over to DJI is I got tired of all the APM tuning and moering.
The Dji is the shit! APM works great aswell, it just requires alot more TLC to dial it in.
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We sell all kinds of stuff, including multi-rotor UAV/Drones :ugeek:
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby hennisdk » Thu Jun 28, 2012 4:56 pm

Hi Gareth

I have fiddled with it, and got it very nice. But like you said always with stick input.

With GPS I get it 3 x 3 m box hold but nothing better.

I am really considering getting the Naza with GPS, but R4700 is a lot of money.

Maybe I should just save and get it and save myself the headache.

I was then thinking of building a plane with FPV with the APM2.

Thanks for your advice.

Hennis
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby GarethRens » Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:36 pm

Im also gonna put my APM into a plane.

You can buy the naza and gps seperately. Obviously start with the naza ;)

You wont be sorry going DJI!
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby hennisdk » Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:47 pm

garethrens wrote:Im also gonna put my APM into a plane.

You can buy the naza and gps seperately. Obviously start with the naza ;)

You wont be sorry going DJI!


Don't get me wrong, I think the APM2 is fantastic, but maybe needs more work put into the multicopter area. I think it was more designed for the Plane than multicopter.

Well every video I have watched about the Naza, it was right on. Every forum I have read about it, no one has a bad word to say about it, except the price.

Yep maybe buy it piece for piece, but I like to get everything in one go. In my nature.

Thanks

Hennis
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby GarethRens » Thu Jun 28, 2012 6:05 pm

A very wise man on diydrones once said. Ardupilot is an experiment, DJI is a product!
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby hennisdk » Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:36 pm

garethrens wrote:A very wise man on diydrones once said. Ardupilot is an experiment, DJI is a product!


I like that!
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Re: DJI F450 PID SETTINGS FOR APM2

Postby Trevcharl » Tue Jul 18, 2017 3:30 pm

I have built up all kinds of electronic equipment, my biggest problem has been interference. I am
getting a kit with APM2.6, I am making my own chassis, there is a VTX and a 2.4gig transceiver for
telemetering, then the GPS unit. I have allowed for RF shields in my design, and the length of wires that feed peripherals (Motors, transmitters...) Any length of wire is resonant at a particular frequency, and can
cause interference. So any stimulant will cause an oscillatory effect, albeit for a very short time, and another thing we tend to overlook is the power supply. Would it not be pertinent to add a small cap on the input of all boards despite regulators and whatnots? We all know what motorboating is like on audio equipment, the very same principle may be present in your gadget. Looking at a normal computer board you will see in many cases a small cap across the 5v lines very near the chips. Maybe it may be worth the try looking at these factors? I havent got my kit yet, it is stuck at Johanneburg international, so I cant talk from experience on these systems....er....yet
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